Can You Start Sisterlocks on Relaxed Hair? What You Need to Know

Sisterlocks are more than just an amazing (and frankly, innovative) way to lock and protect your hair.

It’s a hairstyle that’s versatile and accessible.

So accessible that women often ask…can you start sisterlocks on relaxed hair?

Relaxed or permed hair has gone through significant treatment to get it nice and straight.

Going from relaxed to sisterlocks can feel like two ends of the spectrum.

But here’s the good part.

Yes, you can start sisterlocks on relaxed hair, and many women have successfully done so.

But it’s not easy.

While it’s possible, there are some things you should consider, especially when compared to locking natural, perm-free hair.

Understanding Relaxed Hair vs. Natural Hair

Relaxed hair and natural hair represent two distinct approaches to hair care, particularly for Black women, each with its own characteristics, benefits, and challenges.

Relaxed hair is the application of chemical products to break down the tight bonds that make black hair curly and coiled to achieve a smooth, straight texture.

Chemical relaxers are used to permanently alter the structure of hair by breaking down protein bonds, specifically disulfide bonds, which give hair its natural texture and strength. This process typically involves the use of highly alkaline substances like sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide, which straighten curly or kinky hair by disrupting its natural pattern. However, this chemical process can weaken the hair, making it more prone to dryness, breakage, and loss of elasticity.

Natural hair has no damaging chemicals added and retains its original texture. It is structurally stronger due to intact protein bonds. It tends to be more voluminous but can be challenging to manage due to tangling and shrinkage when wet. However, it is difficult to achieve the texture of straight hair. This cannot be maintained with other conventional methods (eg. pressing your hair).

Relaxed hair is permanently straightened, making it easier to style and less prone to tangling. However, it is structurally weaker and more susceptible to damage from chemical treatments and environmental stressors. In turn, this hair is easier to style with some techniques like braids and locks.

How Feasible Is Starting Sisterlocks On Relaxed Hair?

What makes sisterlocks so appealing is that its unique technique makes it possible to be installed on different hair types, including relaxed hair.

Installing sisterlocks on relaxed hair is a declaration of moving from relaxed to natural hair. The purpose is to regrow your natural hair, reestablish hair health, and explore new styles.

But the answer is YES, you can install and start sisterlocks on relaxed hair.

You can transition to locs without undergoing a big chop, which can be appealing if you prefer to retain some length while starting your loc journey.

The relaxed portion of the hair is too soft to lock, so the focus is on the new natural growth. A minimum of 1½ to 2 inches of unprocessed hair is typically required to begin the process

The biggest advantage is there is no need for a big chop. Relaxed ends can be gradually trimmed while the hair grows. This allows for a gradual transition to natural hair, allowing for styling versatility as your hair grows.

The Challenges of Sisterlocks on Relaxed Hair

While you can technically start sisterlocks on relaxed hair, there will be challenges. First, you’ll need a skilled loctician in your corner to complete the his process. The loctician should be able to effectively loc your hair and have some experience with relaxed hair.

Perhaps the biggest concern is that the transition line between relaxed and natural hair can be weak, increasing the risk of breakage later. Remember, the relaxed part cannot lock, so this limits your styling options. You might even need different hair care and maintenance needs for both hair textures.

Your timeline may be considerably longer based on your hair health and the process of trimming your relaxed hair as your hair transitions from relaxed to natural.

You need to work through the pros and cons before making the big step to sisterlocks from relaxed hair.

When you do decide, you’ll have a few options available to you.

Options for Those with Relaxed Hair

So you can start sisterlocks with relaxed hair. However, you’ll need to make some decisions on how you’ll be locking your hair. A loctician will use a special locking tool to lock your hair and start your sisterlocks. This process can take several hours over multiple days, encompassing several hundred locks. With relaxed hair, your loctician will either:

1. Recommend ‘The Big Chop’ Before Installation

When women decide to move from relaxed hair to natural hair again, the best option is to cut off their hair down to the part where the new growth starts. You'll cut your hair short (typically 1-3 inches depending on your growth) to remove all chemically processed ends before installation begins.

The biggest advantage is that it creates uniform, consistent locs from the start. Doing the big chop eliminates concerns about breakage at the transition line. You’ll also have healthier locs with stronger integrity with easier maintenance.

You’ll need to be comfortable with very short hair, which can be difficult for many women. It may take longer to achieve your goals as this represents the most dramatic initial change.

2. Transitioning with Sisterlocks (Starting with Relaxed Hair)

This approach involves installing Sisterlocks on your current hair, including some of the relaxed portions. Is it possible? Yes it is. However, the risk of unraveling or not locking is very high.

On one hand, you get to keep your natural length, avoiding the stress of cutting off your hair entirely. This begins the process immediately.

On the other hand, you’ll end up with locks with inconsistent textures. The transition line becomes vulnerable to breakage and thinning. This process may require the most maintenance and retightening as relaxed ends may lock differently than natural roots. Expect varying timelines for different sections to mature fully. The relaxed portions may take longer to lock properly.

3. Gradual Trimming During the Sisterlocks Journey

This approach involves installing Sisterlocks on your current hair but trimming the relaxed ends gradually as your natural hair grows. This gives you the best of both worlds. You start your sisterlocks with your current hair, then trim small amounts (¼-½ inch) of the relaxed ends every few months during retightening sessions.

You’ll maintain more length than option 1, allowing for a more gradual transition. Your hair is more likely to lock evenly and have more uniform textures. There is progressive integrity achieved with your locks.

While this option gives you the best of both options, it requires consistent discipline to trim your ends and manage the process. It also takes longer to achieve fully natural locs and there is still a smaller risk of texture inconsistency.

The best choice depends on your priorities: If maintaining length is crucial, Options 2 or 3 might be preferable. If you prioritize loc health and uniformity, Option 1 (the big chop) generally yields the best long-term results. Many Sisterlocks consultants recommend Option 1 or 3 over Option 2 for the health and integrity of your future locs.

Preparing Your Relaxed Hair For Sisterlocks

Whichever option you take, you should spend extensive time beforehand caring for your hair to prepare for this transition.

You should focus on a regimen of strengthening treatments in the weeks or months leading up to your appointment. Begin with regular protein treatments every 2-3 weeks to reinforce the weakened bonds in your chemically processed hair, alternating with deep moisturizing treatments to maintain the critical protein-moisture balance. Even your new growth can benefit from the extra TLC.

Until then, avoid additional chemical processes including color treatments, perms, or relaxer touch-ups during this preparation period.

Using lightweight oils like jojoba or argan oil may improve elasticity without weighing down your future locs.

Minimize heat styling and manipulation to prevent further damage, while gently detangling with wide-tooth combs to reduce breakage.

Most importantly, consult with multiple sisterlocks pros until you find one specifically experienced with installing sisterlocks on relaxed hair, as their expertise with transitioning hair is crucial for success.

They can provide personalized advice based on your specific hair condition and help set realistic expectations for your installation process.

Some consultants may recommend specific pre-installation products or treatments based on your hair's unique needs, which can significantly improve your transition experience and the long-term health of your sisterlocks.

Care Tips for Sisterlocks with Relaxed Ends

You’ll need to do some work to care for your sisterlocks on relaxed hair, but it’s possible. The effort is worth it. A careful balance of techniques and products can maintain both the integrity of your developing locs and the health of your chemically processed ends.

Focus on proper moisture management by using lightweight, water-based products on the drier relaxed portions while avoiding over-moisturizing that can cause buildup.

Handle your locs gently, particularly at the vulnerable transition line where natural meets relaxed hair, by minimizing manipulation and sleeping with a satin bonnet. Implement a strategic trimming schedule with your consultant, removing about ¼ to ½ inch of relaxed ends every 4-8 weeks during retightening sessions, watching for signs like fraying that indicate earlier trimming is needed.

Choose loc-specific, residue-free products that won't interfere with the locking process, avoiding heavy butters or waxes, and incorporate occasional protein treatments specifically for the relaxed sections. This balanced approach will help you navigate the transition period successfully until your sisterlocks are fully natural.

Final Thoughts

It's rare for someone with relaxed hair to transition into sisterlocks. At the same time, it's not a far-fetched or crazy idea.

You can do it.

It takes preparation, additional care, and the support of a highly skilled loctician to complete the process.

Know that there will be drawbacks such as inconsistent textures and potential breakage. You'll also need to deal with having short hair if you decide to cut it all off.

Whatever your decision, the end result is beautiful sisterlocks. Be patient, follow through on your retightening sessions, and enjoy the versatile, beautiful, liberating style that is sisterlocks. 

 

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