How To Maintain Sisterlocks With A Scalp Condition

Managing a scalp condition can be daunting, and adding locs to the equation can make it seem impossible. Scalp conditions can pop up at any time and impact your quality of life. If you have sisterlocks, you will need to target the scalp condition while delicately navigating your locs to prevent future damage.

As daunting as it seems, we have identified some simple steps to help you maintain sisterlocks with a scalp condition for optimal scalp health:

• Identify you have a problem
• Make an appointment with a professional
• Set an appropriate schedule
• Use products that will actively help to alleviate symptoms

Scalp conditions are any issue, problem, or disease that affects the skin on the top of the head. They can range from mild and intermittent, to chronic.

For this article, we will focus on four of the more common scalp conditions amongst Black women:

1. Sebhorreic Dermatitis (Dandruff) Note: Dandruff is a mild form of Sebhorreic Dematitis
2. Scalp Psoriasis
3. Dry Scalp
4. Alopecia

1. Identify You Have A Scalp Issue

You will notice sudden changes in the look and feel of your scalp. Itching, flaking, crusting, redness, and scalp soreness are common examples. The scalp may also feel tender to the touch.

You may notice excessive hair loss. We naturally lose about 50-100 strands of hair a day. However, anything beyond the normal 50-100 hairs per day can indicate an underlying health condition. Some people notice scaly patches forming on the scalp, which can appear silvery or greasy.

These are signs to go get help as soon as possible.

2. Make An Appointment With A Professional

This might seem like common sense, but in the age of YouTube, Google, and Web M.D., it goes without saying that self-diagnosis is NOT sufficient. To know how to properly address your scalp discomfort, you have to identify and/or confirm which condition you are suffering from. I highly suggest making an appointment with a dermatologist.

As a board-certified dermatologist myself, I can attest that dermatologists are well-equipped to help you identify your issue—we are medical doctors with a specialty in skin, hair, and nail conditions. A dermatologist can assess your scalp, diagnose your concern, prescribe medicine, or administer approved medical treatments to address your condition.

If you are too busy to make an in-person appointment, consider making a telehealth appointment with your doctor.

While you are waiting for your appointment, here are a few key facts to know about these four common scalp conditions:

Dandruff and Dry Scalp are NOT The Same

While both conditions involve flaking, the size and shape of the flakes are not the same. The causes of the conditions also differ drastically.

Dandruff is defined by large, oily, yellowish, or whitish flakes that may stick to the hair and scalp. It can be caused by a yeast-like fungus known as Malaseezia OR seborrheic dermatitis. Your scalp would be itchy, scaly, and/or greasy.

A dry scalp, on the other hand, is defined by small, white, dry flakes that fall off easily. Often, it is caused by dry weather, reactions to harsh hair products, and/or other underlying skin conditions. Your scalp would feel dry, tight, itchy, and very uncomfortable.

Don’t Confuse Scalp Psoriasis With Mild Dandruff

Scalp psoriasis is a form of plaque psoriasis that is defined by raised, thick red patches covered with silvery-white scales. One of its main characteristics is soreness and burning on the scalp. It can cover the entire scalp and sometimes extend past the hairline to the forehead, behind the ears, and the nape of the neck. The condition can lead to hair loss.

There Are Several Types of Alopecia

Although sisterlocks with traction alopecia is a common issue, other types can be caused by autoimmune diseases, medication, and/or a host of other health conditions. It is key not to assume or guess which type of alopecia you have unless you have clear evidence that is linked primarily to wearing locs or braided styles. Nevertheless, most types of alopecia lead to hair loss.

Remember, before moving on to the next steps, you have to be sure what you're dealing with for the long-term health of your sisterlocks.

3. Set A Schedule

Traditionally, sisterlock wearers wash their hair every 6-8 weeks per their re-tightening schedule. However, when managing a scalp condition, you need to set a schedule and/or routine that accommodates your scalp needs and sensitivities.

This means that you cannot tie your wash schedule to your re-tightening schedule in the same way that most loc wearers do. Be prepared to have non-retightening wash days.

You will need to wash, moisturize, and gently separate the hair before styling on your non-retighten wash days.

With a confirmed scalp condition, you may need to wash your hair more frequently. Doing so will help to minimize flares and ease discomfort.

How often should you wash your sisterlocks is an individual decision based on your unique challenges, but I would highly recommend planning to wash your hair at least every two to four weeks.

For those dealing with dandruff, you want to lean into washing every 1-2 weeks with an over-the-counter or medicated zinc-based shampoo.

For those contending with dry scalp, wash once every two weeks with a moisturizing shampoo. This will help minimize product buildup that might be irritating to the scalp and alleviate any dryness or discomfort.

If you're battling scalp psoriasis, washing once a week with a medicated shampoo is ideal. However, you need to consider your particular hair type, times of the month, and/or environmental factors that might lead to flare-ups and the harshness of the medicated shampoo. If you find it too drying to wash weekly, extend it to two weeks or a week and a half intervals.

With alopecia, the frequency of your washes is less of a concern, but the quality of your wash is important. You have to find and use very gentle products and be sure to apply them to your hair with care. You could push your wash schedule to every 4-6 weeks.

4. Use Appropriate Products

When choosing products to properly treat your scalp condition, you need to consult with your dermatologist or trichologist for guidance, but here are a few basic tips to help you identify the best products:

Pre-poos + Shampoos

All pre-poos and shampoos are not created equally and you need to select products that will actively address your scalp condition.

• Dandruff: Zinc-based shampoos like Head and Shoulders or Nizoral are specially formulated to address this condition. Wash with lukewarm water to gently alleviate any discomfort on the scalp.
• Dry Scalp: Use moisturizing pre-poos and shampoos to help restore moisture and balance to your hair and scalp. Try my BLCK Lux Scalp Detox Hair Serum as a moisturizing pre-poo before using a moisturizing shampoo of your choice. Prioritize shampoos that contain aloe vera, tea tree oil, and/or coconut oil as these ingredients are known to aid in moisture. Check out our list of the best shampoos for sisterlocks. Be sure to wash in warm, NOT hot, water to avoid drying out your scalp and causing more irritation.
• Scalp Psoriasis: As stated before, a medicated shampoo is necessary for scalp psoriasis. If you are looking for an easy-to-find over-the-counter option, check out Neutrogena T Sal Therapeutic. For a specialized medicated shampoo, look for Dermarest Psoriasis Medicated Shampoo and Conditioner. This 2-in-1 product will help you manage your condition and your wallet. Wash in warm water, gently.
• Alopecia: Wash with an all-natural hair-strengthening shampoo. Look for products that contain rosemary oil, peppermint, vitamin E, and Biotin—known to aid in hair strengthening. Remember, the gentler the better.

Conditioners and Styling Products

When selecting conditioners for your sisterlocks, I suggest leaning into lightweight mist leave-in conditioners that will moisturize without causing buildup. Focus on simple ingredients that will not aggravate your condition. Find a comprehensive list of the best conditioners for sisterlocks here.

Styling products can make or break your loc maintenance routine with a scalp condition. Overuse or underuse of certain products can aggravate your condition or cause flare-ups. Here's what I recommend:

• Dandruff: Look for and prioritize styling products that contain salicylic acid, pyrithione zinc, or ketoconazole. These ingredients are known to combat the symptoms of dandruff.
• Dry Scalp: Prioritize soothing and moisturizing products that will mitigate scalp discomfort. Consider adding Head and Shoulders Royal Oils Instant Soothe Scalp Elixir Serum to your styling routine. Stay away from heavy gels or edge control that may increase irritation, Build-up, and dryness.
• Scalp Psoriasis: Look for and prioritize gentle, sulfate-free products and minimize styling products, focusing on moisturizing and avoiding harsh chemicals that can aggravate the condition.  Styling products can clog pores and irritate the scalp, especially harsh styling gels and edge control, which are typical for use during retightening or retwisting. Lean into gentle, fragrance-free products if you must use styling products on your locs.
• Alopecia: whether you're battling tension Alopecia or Alopecia Arreata, you want to focus on lightweight styling products that contain strengthening ingredients. Jamaican Black Castor oil is a great ingredient to look for or incorporate on your own as it encourages fullness and hair growth. However, be mindful not to use too much as it is a very thick oil that can, in some cases, cause build-up on the scalp. Avoid heavy products that will weigh down your hair and potentially lead to breakage at your roots.

Consistency is Key

The main thing to remember when establishing and executing a loc maintenance routine that is sensitive to and actively addresses your scalp condition is that you must be consistent with your regimen.

If you want to maintain healthy sisterlocks and a healthy scalp, you have to be committed to consulting your dermatologist or trichologist to discuss what is or isn't working, committed to the schedule you set for washing and maintenance, and even more diligent about the types of products you choose. I hope this short guide gives you the boost you need to get started!